Based on the very successful trip that we did in September 2024 with visiting family, I decided to head back to the Cariboo-Chilcotin and British Columbia Central Coast in early September. Wildfires were raging around much of the Chilcotin and the road to Bella Coola, where I planned to go, was closed because of the fires. But I packed up our little truck camper and headed off, hoping the situation would improve when I got there. My goal was to see some Grizzly Bears in the salmon rivers near Bella Coola. Then leave the vehicle in Bella Coola and take the 10-hour ferry to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island in order to see some lovely coastal scenery, whales, seabirds and maybe Sea Otters; stay the night in Port Hardy and take the ferry back to Bella Coola.
All photos copyright Alan Burger
My first stop of interest was the Scout Island Nature Centre just outside William’s Lake. This is an excellent example of how local naturalists and a municipal government maintain a lovely protected area, right next to an industrial area, with a world-class nature education centre. Lots of good birds – here is a sample:
A group of Gadwall. The north end of William’s Lake and adjacent marshland is prime waterfowl habitat.
Savannah Sparrow – one of several sparrow species in the nature reserve.
One of the two Merlins that were catching dragonflies and terrorizing little birds at the Scout Island Nature Centre, 8 September 2025.
Heading west from William’s Lake I encountered very little traffic – many towns were under evacuation orders because of fires and most of the side roads off the main highway were closed. At Redstone I encountered a familiar scene:
Same gas station, different horse. The fuel here evidently gives high horse-power.
I camped at a beautiful forest service campsite on Puntzi Lake. There is a relatively new colony of White Pelicans breeding on an island in this lake and during my stay there were several pelicans flying about and feeding.
White Pelican at Puntzi Lake, 8 September 2025.
The forest around Puntzi Lake is mostly sparse and somewhat stunted Lodgepole Pine with Kinnikinnick creeping shrub the main understorey.
Kinnikinnick, also known as Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi). Puntzi Lake, 8 September 2025.
The Kinnikinnick plants were loaded with berries and, not surprisingly, these had attracted numerous grouse. In a half-hour walk around the camp area I came across a family of five Ruffed Grouse and two groups of Spruce Grouse.
This pair of Spruce Grouse were together at Puntzi Lake – female (L) and male (R).
This female Spruce Grouse had three full-grown chicks nearby.
The next day I had planned to get to Bella Coola on the coast, but the highway was closed because of the fire risk. Anahim Lake village was under an evacuation order and deserted except for dozens of fire-fighters. So I stopped off at Anahim Lake Resort, where we had spent a couple of days in 2024. The resort was only catering to some fire-fighters, but the owners, Ralph and Grace, kindly let me stay the night. As it worked out, I was able to drive Grace to the airport at Bella Coola to catch a plane to Vancouver for some medical appointments.
I was the sole occupant of the campsite at Anahim Lake Resort with a lovely view over the lake.
Amazingly the skies cleared and after weeks of being in wildfire smoke, back home and on this trip, I was finally enjoying some clear skies. But in the near distance the big wildfire was still very much in evidence.
Sunset over Anahim Lake with looming smoke from the nearby wildfire, 9 September 2025.
Smoky sunset – Anahim Lake, 9 September 2025.
The next day Grace and I were able to join the 5 AM convoy that took us through the fire zone following a pilot truck. It was an unnerving experience, driving fast on the dirt road in the dark and thick smoke, with flames still burning right next to the road in some places. But by daylight we were free of the fires and venturing down the steep Hill taking us to the coast. Grace was able to catch her plane and I could book on the ferry from Bella Coola to Port Hardy the next day.
We stopped off at the Fisheries Pool campsite on the Atnarko River where there are usually many salmon spawning and bears there to eat them.
We did see one big Grizzly Bear crossing the Atnarko River among the spawning salmon. Unfortunately the early morning light was poor for photography and the bear didn’t stay around.
Peaks near the Atnarko River near Bella Coola.
I then spent a very pleasant day (smoke free!) exploring some areas around Bella Coola.
Some of the hundreds of gulls at Bella Coola harbour, 10 September 2025.
Diversity of gull species at Bella Coola harbour (L to R): Herring Gull, California Gull, Iceland (Thayer’s) Gull and Short-billed Gull. These species can be distinguished based on size, colour of legs and eyes, and the size and coloration of their beaks.
A young Harbour Seal, Bella Coola harbour.
Early the next morning I ditched the truck and was on the ferry heading down the narrow coastal fjords.
Scenery along North Bentinck Arm near Bella Coola, 11 September 2025.
Ferry route (in red) and other places mentioned.
Gulls continued to be common along the coastal fjords.
A flock of Red-necked Phalaropes. These are shorebirds which regularly feed while swimming on the ocean. At this time they are migrating southward from far northern breeding grounds.
I spent most of the 10-hour ferry trip on the outer decks, looking for marine mammals and seabirds.
Mountain scenery along FitzHugh Sound
Addenbroke Light Station in FitzHugh Sound.
Some of the 20 or more Humpback Whales we encountered on the 11 September voyage.
A diving Humpback Whale showing its distinctive tail flukes.
Among the seabirds I was hoping to see were shearwaters. These are pelagic seabirds normally found far out to sea, but they do venture into Queen Charlotte Sound and Queen Charlotte Strait at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. Two species are fairly common here: Sooty and Short-tailed Shearwaters. Both species breed in the southern hemisphere (islands off Australia, New Zealand and Chile) but migrate up into the North Pacific during their non-breeding season (northern summer).
One has to look really closely to distinguish these two shearwater species: Sooty Shearwaters (left 2 photos) generally have paler underwings, slightly longer bills and more sloping foreheads compared to Short-tailed Shearwaters (right 2 photos). But most of the ones I saw could not be identified to species.
Another seabird I was chuffed to see was Forked-tailed Storm-petrel. They do breed on islands in Queen Charlotte Strait but generally feed far out at sea. I did see several on these ferry rides.
An unexpected species was this juvenile Sabine’s Gull, with its very distinctive wing pattern. These gulls breed in the arctic tundra and then spend the non-breeding time far out at sea, even venturing into the Southern Ocean beyond South America.
Mountain scenery on the mainland. Queen Charlotte Strait runs between the mainland and northern Vancouver Island.
In Queen Charlotte Strait we encountered hundreds of shearwaters, often in flocks with dozens together.
A huge flock of shearwaters in Queen Charlotte Strait. Good luck in distinguishing Sooty and Short-tail in these flocks!
In both Queen Charlotte Sound and QC Strait we passed several Sea Otters. This one was close enough to photograph. When they aren’t feeding they like to keep their paws out of the cold water.
Sea Otter – Queen Charlotte Strait.
In Port Hardy I stayed in a very nice hostel near the waterfront and had a couple of hours to explore the rocky shoreline nearby, which turned out to be a hotspot for shorebirds.
Black Turnstones were common along the Port Hardy waterfront. Look closely and you can see a couple of Surfbirds among them (slightly larger and more uniform grey – one extreme left and one just off centre). And a crow too.
A couple of Pectoral Sandpipers were a nice surprise – they are relatively uncommon on migration through British Columbia.
A Red Knot was the most unexpected bird along the Port Hardy waterfront – I’ve only seen this species in Canada a few times.
The next morning I was back on the same ferry, heading north back to Bella Coola. This time the weather was less kind – misty and drizzle most of the way. But still some interesting sightings.
A misty morning in Queen Charlotte Strait.
Migrating flock of ducks heading south in the mist. Most of these are Northern Pintails but there are a few Northern Shovelers among them (those with blue on the wings and big beaks). Queen Charlotte Strait, 12 September 2025.
A Humpback Whale lying on its back waving its huge flippers in the air. Queen Charlotte Sound, 12 September 2025.
The same whale doing flipper splashes.
This Sea Otter was unconcerned as the big ferry passed by just a few metres away. Queen Charlotte Sound, 12 September 2025.
Colourful rock formations along Burke Channel.
Misty mountain slopes – Burke Channel heading towards Bella Coola.
I spent the next 2 nights camped at Fisheries Pool at the Atnarko River, hoping for more Grizzly Bear sightings.
Fisheries Pool is a lovely tranquil place to sit and wait for bears to show up.
This big Griz passed by Fisheries Pool early on the morning of 13 September, but it didn’t stay around very long.
Even with no bears, Fisheries Pool still has much to see. Common Mergansers come past regularly and there are other birds in the surrounding forest.
Common Mergansers – they look underwater as they swim and then dive down if they see some potential prey – like juvenile salmon.
This American Dipper was having a fine feast picking out salmon eggs in the shallows.
One of the many dying or dead salmon after they have spawned. This is a big Chum Salmon (also known as Dog Salmon).
After a few hours with no bears I decided to go for a hike on a nearby trail – Burnt Bridge Trail. A very pleasant 4 km trail through Douglas-fir forest, with views of the surrounding mountains.
Stupendous Peak does live up to its name – seen from the Burnt Bridge hiking trail.
On the Burnt Bridge hiking trail – a large Douglas-fir tree and the suspension bridge over the creek.
Driving back from my hike in the early afternoon I rounded a corner and right on the road were two Grizzly Bears – a female with a yearling cub.
Female Grizzly Bear and her yearling cub. 13 September 2025.
The yearling was a big bear, but still following its mum.
Mama Grizzly was very intent on moving along, and for more than a km she walked right along the centre line while I followed 80 m behind. There wasn’t much traffic but she did move aside when a vehicle came from the opposite direction. Drivers were very considerate and stopped with their flashers on to let them pass.
Eventually the pair moved off the road to feed on some Mountain Ash berries and I was able to pass, stopping briefly to get some photos.
Junior bear being obstreperous and having a little spat with its mum.
Looking at the photos I realized that this family was the same two we had seen almost exactly a year ago at Fisheries Pool. Notice the distinctive scar on the female bear’s nose. Baby bear has grown a lot!
To see more photos from our September 2024 visit to this area click here: Chilcotin & Coast 2024
An exciting end to my visit at the Atnarko River area.
Rain had ended the major fire risk so the way was clear for an easy drive home, spread over 3 days.
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